Centeno e Proceno

Centeno, a small village immersed in the peaceful Lazio countryside, owes its name to its distance from Rome, lying exactly at 100 miles from the ancient Via Francigena. Situated near the border with Tuscany, it has served as a strategic point for centuries. Until 1870, Centeno hosted the Papal Customs Office, functioning as a post station and inn for travellers on Via Francigena. An odd fact links this village to Galileo Galilei: it seems that the great scientist stayed here in February 1625 when he was on his way to Rome to face the trial of the Holy Office. Today, all that remains of that lively past are a few houses and a historic building, perhaps the old customs house, now weather-beaten.

A few kilometres from Centeno, Proceno boasts ancient origins, with a tradition linking its founding to Porsenna, the legendary Etruscan ruler of Chiusi. Indeed, the Proceno area has yielded numerous artifacts testifying to the ancient Etruscan presence. However, the village’s documented history begins around 1000 AD, with the establishment of a castrum for protection against barbarian invasions. Over the centuries, Proceno was contested by various powers, including Orvieto, the Papal States and Imperial forces.

The Castle of Proceno, built between the 12th and 13th centuries, is the village’s most iconic monument. Dominating the town, the castle has withstood numerous sieges and battles, bearing witness to its long and turbulent history. Nearby in the central square, the mighty Sforza Palace was erected, commissioned by Cardinal Guido Ascanio Sforza in the mid-16th century. Its imposing rusticated stone façade, enriched with an elegant balcony and grand travertine-framed windows represents one of the best examples of Renaissance architecture in the area.
The palace was built when Guido Ascanio, the eldest son of Bosio II Sforza and Costanza Farnese, was appointed Chamberlain of the Holy Roman Church and Governor of Proceno, which had been a stronghold of the Sforza family since 1417. Inside, the rooms of the palace are still decorated with frescoes that testify to the splendour of that period.

Proceno, with its fortifications and its noble palace, is a must-see for those interested in medieval and Renaissance history, offering a journey that goes back in time through its streets and monuments. Together, Centeno and Proceno offer an enchanting journey through history, blending medieval and Renaissance splendour with the natural beauty of the historic villages on the Lazio-Tuscany border.